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"Obviously," Capucine went on, "no one here is going to gossip about what patrons speak about during their meals." She gave a little smile she hoped conveyed her complicity. "But a valued client of the restaurant has been murdered and we need all of you to help bring the culprit to justice. It's the responsible thing to do."
The table again fractured into shards of animated private conversation. Only two boys, teenagers in jeans, who looked like they might be aide serveurs, sat rigidly, staring straight ahead silently, lips squeezed tight as an extra precaution against betraying their secret. Making them even more conspicuous, Bouteiller shot them warning glances.
"Monsieur Bouteiller," Capucine said, "if those boys know anything, let them speak. The discretion of a restaurateur is one thing, obstruction of justice is a whole other kettle of fish."
Bouteiller scowled, shrugged, and jerked his head towards the boys, "Tres bien. Allez y!"
"Well, Madame," began one of the boys, "At the beginning of the meal, Arsène, he's the serveur who's our boss, served Président Delage the Coquetier au liqueur d'érable acidulé. You know, it's a signature dish, soft boiled egg with a vinegar and maple syrup sauce. The eggs are delivered just before dinner. Can you believe it, they are actually laid that morning," he said with adolescent wonder. "Anyway, Prèsident Delage said he wanted a timbale of the liqueur on the side because there was never enough." A man in his early thirties sitting a few seats down the table, whom Capucine assumed was the Arsène in question, nodded vigorously. "So," the boy continued, "Arsène went back to the kitchen to get it and left us standing there. We did what we were supposed to and backed five paces away from the table and stood at attention all the time we were waiting, but we could still hear the conversation pretty good."
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Alan Passard, one of the most billiant of the threestars chefs in Paris, has been serving set and sour eggs coddled in their own shells for quite some time, but his recipe is not only secret but far more complicated than this one. Chef Labrousse's recipe in The Gourmet's Wife is probably even more complicated that Passard's, but since it's a secret too, we'll never know. As far as I'm concerned, this one is every bit as good. |
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1 egg
1 teaspoon maple syrup (grade Alight amber is preferable to the darker grades
1 tablespoon whipping cream
Pinch Quatre Epices
1 teaspoon Sherry vinegar
2 pinches fleur de sel de Guérande
1 twist black pepper
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Pour off the white and discard, leaving the yolk intact at the bottom of the eggshell. A certain amount of prestidigitation will be required to remove all the egg white.
Beat the cream with the vinegar and the quatre epices, the fleur de sel, and one twist of pepper.
Now comes the tricky part. Float the eggshell in a pan of water that is just at the edge of boiling. You little boat will float only in still waters, so its serenity must not be troubled by tempestuous boiling. Also, if you don't remove enough of the egg shell it will tip over. Simmer very gently for ten minutes.
Remove the shell and place in an egg cup.
Fill to close to the top with the cream mixture, which should be at room temperature.
Gently pour the maple syrup on the top.
Serve immediately. |
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The charm of this dish comes from the quality and moderate use of the ingredients as well as the contrast between the hot yolk and the colder cream and maple syrup. This recipe takes a very steady and confident hand to pull off. Even more importantly the ingredients must be stellar. The egg needs to be fresh and from a freerange chicken. The maple syrup has to be perfect. This is a joyous dish but best left for the day you find yourself in some bucolic retreat in, say, Vermont, and all the ingredients suddenly present themselves with the requisite freshness and quality.
If the surgery on the egg is too much to contemplate, it will be just as good in one of those screw-top egg coddlers you received as a wedding present and have relegated to the attic. Just don't forget to write Aunt Emma to tell her how much you are finally appreciating her gift.
If French Quatre Epices spice is hard to obtain, an excellent substitute can be made at home.
Imitation Quatre Epices
White peppercorns, 4 tablespoons
Nutmeg, grated, ½ teaspoon
Cloves, about 20
Cinnamon, freshly ground, ½ teaspoon
Ginger, freshly grated, ½ teaspoon
Pulse a few times in a food processor until the mixture is homogenous. Store in the dark.
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